February 2025

Baja Bound

This entirety of this month was spent in Baja, Mexico.  We crossed the border the morning of Saturday, February 1.  After a short vehicle search we parked near the border to apply for our FMM.  We had to walk to a separate building to pay for the FMM, then take the paperwork back to the passport person who stamped the paperwork and then sent us on our way.  It was relatively easy and straightforward.

The first stop after crossing the border was San Felipe.  On the way we did have to pause at a military checkpoint, but since they were aware we were tourists, they quickly waved us through.  We grabbed lunch in town and beers at San Felipe Brewing.  

We stayed four nights at Campo Archelon in Bahía de los Angeles.  The campground was adjacent to the adjacent, had a restaurant that sold pastries and beverages, and the restrooms were nice.  It was a comfortable stay and we felt ourselves slowing down and appreciating the slower pace of life.  Every day we would walk the beach and Lucky loved wading, running, and rolling in the sand.  We used our kayaks a couple of times but one night it was too windy to. 

The next town we stayed in was San Ignacio.  It's a small oasis-like town.  There are palm trees and lush greenery in the middle of the desert.  We loved the campground we stayed at, Paraíso Misional.  The host was so welcoming and kind.  Even though she knew very little English and our Spanish isn't great, we were able to communicate well.  She took our laundry (sheets, towels, clothes), and washed, dried, and folded them for $15 USD.  I told her I felt bad for giving her so many items to wash, but she replied in Spanish that she likes to work and wants more of it.  You can tell her family and she take great pride in the campground property.  It's well maintained, the restrooms are cleaned regularly, and I loved the hot showers.  They even sell date cakes and bread for the guests. 

The campground it only a two minute walk into the town center, where there's a church (Mission San Ignacio Kadakaaman) and some great local restaurants.  While exploring the town we fell in love with a small coffee shop, Artesanías J & J (Arte y Café artesanal).  The owners are incredibly friendly and were patient with us while we practiced our Spanish.  Plus,  the dirty chai lattes were the best we've had.  We went twice while staying in the area.  We would've gone a third time but they happened to be closed. 

Although we were sad to leave San Ignacio, we were excited to explore Bahía Concepción.  On the way to Bahía Concepción we stopped at Santa Rosalia, where we saw the Saint Barbara Maiden Parish.  The Parish was designed by Gustav Eiffel (famous for the Eiffel tower)  and is built like a Lego set. It was shipped from Europe to Mexico.   After having a lunch break in Santa Rosalia we headed to Mulege.  Mulege was another neat town, but what was most appealing to us was the brewery on the outskirts.   At Mulege Brewing Company Hailey tried the Baja Porter. We split the Fuego Tropical pizza, which had roasted pineapple and jalapenos on it.  It was really good.  There was a live band playing music and the atmosphere was lively.  It also happened to be Super Bowl Sunday so the game was playing inside the brewery, but  we didn't care about the game.  

We pulled into Playa el Coyote and were immediately directed to a small and tight spot on the left-hand side of the beach.  We learned later that we would've had more room on the right-hand side of the beach, but we were trying to follow directions and be respectful of the local who appeared to be in charge.  The space was so small that we couldn't unfold out our sand blanket fully; we had to keep it folded in half.  However, the area was pretty and made for great kayaking.  There was also a great coffee shop and restaurant nearby, Nomadico, that we walked to and also kayaked to.  Their mocha was tasty and later that day we tried their ceviche.  

While staying at Playa el Coyote, our friends that we met in Port Alberni, Canada, stopped by.  They're a German couple who have traveled extensively around the US and central America in their RV.  It was nice to see them again and we spent a few minutes catching up.  

The next area we stayed at was Playa Requeson, which we loved.  It's a beach that part of the area turns into an island at high tide.  Our German friends recommended the neighboring beach, Playa la Perla, but we preferred Playa Requeson.  Vendors frequently came to Requeson so we bought shrimp, scallops, fish, ceviche, and empanadas from them during our three night stay.   The kayaking was nice and it was a relaxing area to hang out at. 

The town of Loreto was next on our list.  We stayed at Romanita RV Park, which is right in the center of town.  It was a little tricky to drive to, and it's a small campground.  We were situated in an unofficial campspot but thankfully our extension cord was long enough to connect us to the campground's electrical outlet.  Loreto had a large expat community and a variety of restaurants to choose from.  We dropped our laundry off one morning and picked it up later in the evening.  One of the attractions of the area is the nice waterfront walkway. 

We were eager to leave Loreto and head to Agua Verde.  We had heard so much about the area and were looking forward to experiencing it for ourselves.  The road from the freeway to the campsite takes about an hour and a half.  It's mostly a dirt road and has some tight turns.  The final descent to the campground is steep; Hailey had read on iOverlander that a 2WD Sprinter took five attempts to depart and get up the hill - and they only managed by removing a lot of weight from their van.   Thankfully our rig is 4WD.  Agua Verde did not disappoint - it is beautiful and peaceful.  We loved kayaking in the area, walking or kayaking to Puerto Bella for fish or shrimp tacos, and relaxing at our campsite.  The sense of community created at Agua Verde was unparalleled. 

After relaxing on the beach for almost five days we finally departed Agua Verde and headed to La Paz.  The hustle and bustle of the city was almost overwhelming after coming from the laid back beach life!  Our accommodations while in the city were at Sol RV Park.  We enjoyed walking around La Paz, and there's a great waterfront walkway that has lots of beautiful sculptures.  One of the highlights of our stay in La Paz was getting into Playa Balandra.  It is one of the most beautiful beaches we've been to.  Access is restricted to 450 people during a morning time slot (8am-12pm), and another 450 people for the afternoon time slot  (1pm to 5pm).  We opted for the morning, and got into line before 7am.  We were the second vehicle in line, after a tour bus.  This ended up working in our favor as we were able to park quickly and secure a palapa so we had some shade.   Although dogs are allowed on the beach, they are not allowed in the water.  Lucky was very upset not to be able to wade or play in the water.   The water at Balandra is very clear and shallow.  We were able to wade from one beach to another without any issues.  

The goal was to make to Cabo San Lucas by the first of March, so we continued on our way from La Paz to La Ventana and El Sargento.  The two towns are right next to each other and pretty much blend together.  We ended up staying at Campground El Sargento since the campground we stopped at in La Ventana was full.  Hailey had read that the area was popular with kite and wind surfers, but we did not expect the sheer number of people that would be out on the water.  It was difficult to count as there were so many of them.  There had to be a few dozen, if not a hundred people out on the water.  It was neat to watch. 

The final two spots we stayed at before making it to Cabo San Lucas were Baja Sunrise RV Park in Las Barilles and Playa Miramar in Cabo Pulmo.  Las Barilles had a large expat community but has a neat beach and local vibe.  There were lots of great restaurants to choose from, like Taqueria La Gaviota.  Cabo Pulmo was an interesting area as a lot of the property is a nature preserve.  It was great to be able to camp for free near the beach and see lots of whales from our campsite.  We had some nice walks on the beach and Lucky, as always, loved having time in the water and on the sand.  

     

The welcome sign when entering San Felipe

The church in San Ignacio

We fill up our water tank at local agua purificadoras

Our campground oasis in San Ignacio

The Parish in Santa Rosalia thatwas designed by Gustav Eiffel

A mural in Mulege

An overlook in Mulege

Playa Requeson

Las letras de Loreto

The view from the road to Agua Verde

Agua Verde

Agua Verde (you can see our van towards the left)

Lucky at Playa Balandra

Playa Balandra

One of the sculptures on La Paz's waterfront walkway

Las letras de La Paz